Fill out the form below, and one of our reps will be in touch with you ASAP
NOTE: ESES offers information, services, parts, and accessories to all consumers. Regarding stove sales, we are limited to Wisconsin and Michigan territories only. If you live outside these areas, you will need to contact the manufacturer to find your nearest local stove dealer.
The Quadra-Fire Mt Vernon AE is one of Quadra-Fire’s best selling models. Earth Sense stocks virtually all parts for the Quadra-Fire line including the MTV AE models. With one of the strongest certified tech teams in the Country, we are...
The Quadra-Fire 3 Speed Control Box is used on several models. Whether you have a Classic Bay 1200, 1200i, Contour, Castile, Castile Insert, Santa Fe or Santa Fe Insert, this will be the correct control board for your model. If...
Over the years St Croix has had a number of different control boards. From the original rotary knob and rocker switch boards, to their digital LED touch pad control boards. St Croix’s latest digital control board replaces all previous digital...
The Newest Style St Croix Digital Control Board replaces the previous digital control boards used on both freestanding and insert pellet and corn stove models. The SCF-050 and Revolution Furnace models will use a different control board. If you have...
The Englander line of pellet stoves has been notorious for premature auger motor failures. The original factory auger motors for both the upper and lower fuel drive were sleeve bushing motors. These motors generally created more noise during operation as...
Green Mountain Grills is a Company Constantly Improving Every Product They Offer. The GMG Signature BBQ Sauces are now back in stock with the best prices and fastest shipping anywhere! GMG’s award-winning sauces are formulated to enhance the flavors of...
The GMG Davy Crockett is a portable AC/DC WiFi Pellet Grill Made by Green Mountain Grills. Learn more about the Davy! In the event you need to remove the fuel hopper of the grill, we have created this helpful video to...
The GMG Davy Crockett is a portable, compact, AC/DC, WiFi Wood Pellet BBQ Grill. The Davy has been a huge hit receiving Top Rated reviews around the World! Green Mountain Grills is committed to customer service and making great grills....
Harman pellet stoves use a number of different control boards based on the model and year of manufacturer. The most common Harman control board is their ‘Platinum Board’ which is used on most automatic Harman stoves. This video will go...
We often hear from customers regarding the Versa Grate in their St. Croix Pellet Stove. The Versa Grate is essentially the bottom or base of the firepot/burnpot grate weldment. It’s important that area is cleaned periodically and to do it...
Sally sent in the following message to us. This can relate to virtually every pellet and corn stove appliance that has automatic ignition/start.
SALLY: I recently purchased an igniter for my Lennox Winslow PS40 Stove because it wouldn’t start. The new igniter turns red and gets hot. The burn pot where the pellets are gets hot (red) but the pellets won’t ignite. The stove errors out with a steady red ‘Ready’ light and the ‘Igniting’ light flashes 2 short flashes. Is there something else that should be replaced? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
MR. PELLETHEAD: It’s the combustion air that comes up through the firepot/burnpot once it passes by the igniter that actually lights the pellets. This air is heated to extreme temps by the igniter element and the velocity of that air hitting the fuel causes combustion/ignition.
Check the following items.
Inspect the combustion/exhaust fan – Is it moving? It should be spinning/turning at a very high speed during start up. (Can always check exacts with a voltage meter.)Combustion Fan Kit
Is the door and ash pan gasket sealing tightly? If they are not closed tight or if the gasket is worn and not making a good seal air will leak and cause an issue with start up/ignition. Parts & Gaskets
Check the air intake. Make sure nothing is blocking or obstructing the air intake. (Smaller tube which goes from the rear of the stove to the bottom of the burn pot.)
Inspect the exhaust venting. Should be cleaned every 50 bags on average. Check for accumulation or blockage. Flue Vent Pipe Cleaning Products
These are starting points. For further troubleshooting assistance please email us mrpellethead@pellethead.com
95 Responses to Pellet Stove Igniter / Starter / Hot Rod Troubleshooting
can you email me the written instructions on how to replace the igniter on a Harman P61A pellet stove, everything seems to be working , the igniter will not ignite a fire
Keep in mind that the heated combustion air coming through that area and past the igniter is what actually is lighting the fire. Make sure all burn pot air holes are unplugged and the fire pot is thoroughly scraped. We offer a custom scraper for Harman bun pots that makes the job much easier- http://pellethead.com/product/burn-pot-scraper-for-harman-stoves-fireplaces-part-mar22/
– Make sure the igniter door cover is placed back on and tightened securely with the wingnuts
– Make sure the air inlet to the stove is free and clear underneath the burnpot running back to the rear of the stove- check the flapper located in the intake in the rear of the unit above your combustion fan to make sure it’s free and swinging.
– Make sure your exhaust vent pipe does not have any obstructions
– Make sure your firebox and ashpan drawer are closed securely and the gasket is sealing well all the way around (Typically replace gaskets every 4-6 years.)
– Make sure your combustion/exhaust fan appears to be operating correctly.
Always check the easiest items first. Let us what you find, we are happy to assist.
Thank you for your comment and sharing. Very glad to hear your igniter is working and lighting the fire consistently once again. If you need anything at all please let us know.
Jim,
Thanks for your message. The igniter should be getting glowing red hot. If it is not glowing red then the igniter is more than likely faulty. If it is glowing red than the igniter is more than likely fine and there is an issue with air-flow. The hot air forced around the igniter is what lights the fire. Make sure ash in that area is removed, burnpot holes are not plugged, door gasket seal is tight and combustion/exhaust fan is operating correctly.
You can also test the igniter with an OHM Meter to determine if it is good or bad. Further questions just let us know; specifics regarding make and model can help us better troubleshoot.
Hi – this post is couple years old but I have a similar question – My ignitor turns red, but not the whole thing. Only half of the ignitor is cherry red….the other half is black. I assume this is why the stove is night lighting and that I need a new ignitor?
Hey Mark, Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. It depends on the igniter element, however in 99% of the igniters out there, yes the entire igniter needs to be glowing red for it to ignite properly. More than likely you do need a new element. You can also check the ohms on the igniter if you have a basic multi-meter. This will let us know for sure if the igniter is good or bad. You can message us with your stove make and model and we can let you know what the correct ohm range should be.
I have a country/Lennox pellet stove and the igniter will be cherry red one minute and off the next, The igniter light is flashing and the pellets wont light. when I shut he sequence down by the off switch when it finally stops the combustion fan I get 2 flashing red lights which means ” proof of fire switch” so does that mean the stove is in shut down mode? anything I do it will not start untill I replace that switch? Or is it the igniter? Thanks
Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Based on what you are describing we believe the POF (Proof of Fire) snapswitch is not locking in because the stove is not igniting and creating the heat necessary to lock that switch in. As the igniters in the Winslow models start to go out, they glow red hot in the back where you can see it but are actually burnt out at the tip which is where the heat is needed to ignite the fire. Do you have an electrical meter? If you do, please check the Ohms coming from the igniter. Anything reading over 40 ohms with that particular element should be replaced. Let us know what you find, we are happy to assist.
-Mr. Pellethead
hi i have a napoleon pellet stove red light flashes fan side blower comes on no igniter red light. flashes fourth up fan side everything is clean i heard this could be hi limit switch or maybe igniter thank you is this hard to replace fa stays on.
tank you
Rick, Thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we did not see your comment here until today – There was a glitch in our blog notifications. We are happy to assist should you still need us to. Please contact us direct at info@pellethead.com for direct and immediate response on any questions or needs you may have. Warmest regards, Taylor M. -Earth Sense
I have a Harman P-61 pellet stove that won’t ignite.Tested the igniter by plugging it into a wall socket and works fine.During the feed cycle,the igniter indicator light never comes on.Thinking it’s just not getting power.Checked fuse on circuit board and all is good.What could be the cause?
Tim, Thanks for contacting us. I will also send an email directly to you. Is the feed motor working? Have you double checked the igniter lead connections? Do you have a meter you can check to see what the amperage is coming through the igniter wires. This is either a control board issue or it could be the unit not making a complete circuit with the electric components. If the feed motor is not working it could be a vacuum switch issue. We are happy to assist and we will work with you to get this figured out. Thanks – Taylor
The ignition sequence is activated when the pressure switch closes and both the igniter and feed motor start at the same time. If the feed motor is getting power but the igniter does not, then you may be looking at board issue. The igniter gets its power directly from the board. I would first rule out a bad igniter by checking the Ohms and then look to make sure the connections between the board and the heating element are good also.
I have an enviro ev5 evolution stove. Igniter gets red hot but stove doesn’t light. I noticed that the combustion fan doesn’t come on during start up but the exhaust fan does. Is the combustion fan supposed to come on during start up?
Hey Dave, thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. I believe you are referring to the distribution/convection room-air fan not coming on during start-up. That blower motor will not run until the unit gets hot enough after start-up. There is a low limit snap switch mounted near that blower and once it reaches above 110/120 degrees it will lock in and kick that blower on. The exhaust/combustion motor should be running right away as soon as you start the stove up.
As for the igniter, typically if it is glowing cherry red it should be correct, however you could double check the ohms with a meter and make sure it’s in proper range. Keep in mind that it is not the igniter that lights the fire, but the pre-heated air rushing past the igniter that lights the fire. Make sure the air inlet tube is free and clear, make sure the burnpot holes are free and clear, double check the door and ash pan door seal gaskets and double check the voltage of the exhaust/combustion fan. Let us know what you find, happy to assist. -Taylor
Have a pleasant hearth pellet stove and having problem getting the igniter to light. Replaced it with a new one checked airflow, used Meter in it. Have to start the stove by hand which makes it run continuously.
Thanks for contacting us. So replaced igniter, double checked Ohms, made sure draft/exhaust fan was operating correctly and burnpot holes were open and clean – Those are great first steps to check. How does your door and ash pan gasket seals look? If we are not making good seals there won’t be enough negative pressure in the firebox to light the fire. When you say runs continuously are you saying your stove wont shut down or that the igniter stays on continuously? Could potentially be a control/circuit board issue, but you definitely want to check all the simple and basic things first. Let us know what you find.
Thanks for contacting us. With the Harman line of stoves the unit has to get up to temperature after start-up before the convection/distribution/room-air fan will kick on. The ESP Exhaust Thermister probe is what senses this heat and kicks the blower on when ready. Typically it is around 15 minutes after start-up. Is your fan not coming on at all? Is the status light giving you a series of blinks? Let us know, we are happy to assist.
I have a Lennox Country PI40 insert and I’m having a problem igniting. The last time it actually worked, it ignited only after the burn pot was almost completely full of pellets, and then it lit with a POOF, a lot of smoke, some of which leaked out the door. Just before that final successful lighting, I had let the ash build up in the stove before cleaning for a little longer than usual. I replaced the igniter (with one I bought from you), but the new igniter did get hot but still not enough to light the fire. Not sure what’s happening here. I have been able to light the burn pot manually in the meantime and everything else works fine after I light it manually. Today I cleaned the burn pot by scraping it…not a lot of extra stuff came off of it…tonight I will try again….but I have no confidence that it will work since not a lot came off of the burn pot during my cleaning.
Thanks for contacting us, we are happy to assist. Yes, foremost it is important to keep the firepot clean for proper ignition. With the Country Winslow it is crucial that the igniter is in the correct position to start/light effectively. The igniter should be mounted/installed as close to the burnpot as possible – almost butting up right to the burn pot. Make sure the positioning of the igniter/igniter tube is set that way. Secondly, it is important that the hose clamp on the igniter tube housing is not covering up the holes that are there. Please double check that hose clamp as well. Keep us posted, we will make sure everything is 100%.
Thanks for contacting us. It looks like the TPS35 is a Napolean stove from the research I’ve done. It’s not a unit we have ever carried, however most pellet stoves will function and work the same way when it comes to ignition. Probably not a problem that compressed air will fix. You want to make sure your burn pot holes are free and clear so the air can pass through effectively. Make sure your burn pot is seated in the stove correctly. Make sure your exhaust/combustion fan appears to be operating correctly. You can use an electrical meter and determine what the ohms are of the igniter to troubleshoot whether it’s good or bad. Let us know what you find, we are happy to assist.
We have a vogelzang 5790 and it has basically started with a explosion when starting after a shutdown for low pellets and an accidently shut off and re start before shutdown sequence complete. Is the air intake open too much?
Thanks for contacting us. Keep in mind it is the air rushing past the igniter that is starting your fire. If there is excess fuel in the firepot, excess build up in the firepot or if any of the firepot holes are plugged, it can lead to an explosive ignition. This can also result if the stove has ash plugged elsewhere and it’s not able to draw the air through as efficiently as it needs to. Make sure the venting is clean, Ash traps are clean, exhaust manifold is clean and exhaust/combustion motor housing is clean. 99.9% of the time, the issue you are describing here is directly related to a cleaning issue. Any questions as you go through let us know, we are happy to help.
Hello – I had the exact same problem as some of the earlier comments with my Lennox PI40 Winslow pellet insert. The igniter would glow but not get hot enough to start up. It would get an ‘ignition failure’ code. After eliminating all the other potential issues, I ordered a new igniter. This was Wednesday before Thanksgiving. I got the part on Monday and installed it the next day. The advice was right on! The stove works great now. Thank you for the detailed advice on what to check and what could cause this issue. You will be my first source for information on any future pellet stove issues. (Note – my local Winslow dealer in Prescott AZ, where I live, still hasn’t returned my call from Nov 22, so I took on servicing the stove myself. I’m glad that Earth Sense has this great helpful website)
Wonderful to hear Mark! Happy to assist anyway we can. Any future questions or assistance needed please let us know. You can reach us direct anytime at info@pellethead.com
I have a whitfield profile 20 My igniter wont start i checked to make sure everything was clear and clean checked all the wires took a voltage meter and got no reading on the igniter while it was on
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
I had already put a brand new igniter in and it wont light i can manually get the pellets to burn with a blow torch though
Something is preventing voltage to the igniter and i need help figuring it out
Thanks
Can anybody help me i still cant figure out why my igniter wont light
Its not the igniter i tested it with an outlet and the igniter gets hot but wont turn on at all in the stove everything else works fine all the blowers work
After i manually start the fire it feeds the pellets and stays on like it should
Its like everything works fine but it wont light
Please help
I have an Enviro Mini stove that for 10 years worked without issue. This year the igniter went and blew the fuse. Replaced the igniter with an OEM part and the stove has been running great for a month until yesterday when it blew a fuse. Took the igniter out and test it and sure enough it’s dead. My question – is there something else I should be looking at that would cause the igniter to fail (like something in the control board) or is this just a bad igniter and I need another one?
Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. Typically speaking if there was an issue with the control board it would blow the fuse and igniter right away whereas in your case it run great for a month. I would highly suspect that it is simply a faulty element. Enviro has at least a 90 day warranty on replacement parts; I would suggest contacting the vendor you purchased it from and have them file a warranty claim and send you a new element. Hope that helps, any other questions let us know.
I have a Winslow ps40. I have replaced the igniter and proof of fire switch Which I bought from you.
Despite replacing parts, the pellets still won’t ignite. No sign of pellets getting red . The new igniter glows red when vied from inside stove. Stove igniter switch flashes two fast red while ready button is steady red.
I cleaned the stove completely so I don’t believe the issue is air flow.
Thanks for contacting us, we are happy to assist. The igniter placement in the Winslow is very particular. Here are a couple things to check.
1. Make sure the igniter is pushed up so it’s virtually butting up against the burnpot. If you try to turn the burnpot it should be hitting the igniter housing after an 1/8-1/4 turn not allowing you to spin the burn pot. That will let you know it’s pushed up far enough.
2. The igniter needs to be level. If it is mounted angling slightly up or down it will cause an issue with it lighting properly. Make sure it’s completely horizontal.
3. Make sure the hose clamp used to tighten down is not covering up the air holes in the housing.
4. Check the damper on the stove and make sure that it is pulled out enough.
If all that seems right and there still is an issue, let’s double check the ohms of the igniter with a basic electrical meter. When touching each of the igniter ends with electrical leads and the meter set to Ohm reading, it should be giving a number between 33 and 39 ohms.
Happy to assist, we’ll make sure everything is 100%
Hello, I have a pleasant hearth pellet stove and it’s about 1 year old. The igniter works intermittently. I have cleaned, checked connections and also made sure the igniter housing is grounding to the stove itself properly. It will work a few cycles of getting to room temperature then shut down but later on it will not ignite/ glow red. Kind of stumped at the moment. Any assistance would be great.
Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. Very odd to have an igniter work intermittently; typically they are either going to be good or bad. Keep in mind that it is the air rushing around the igniter that lights the fuel, not the element itself. Make sure all air holes in the firepot are free and clear and that there is no obstruction in the air intake of the stove. Double check the positioning of the igniter as well. If it continues to cause an issue you may want to purchase a replacement igniter. Keep us posted, we are happy to assist.
Hello, I have a winslow ps40. The igniter quite working but have been using stove with no issues by manual start of burn pot. Stove was not used for approximately one week. In that time I cleaned it as always and when I went to use it three days ago it will burn as normal operation for one hour then it quits feeding and will go out with the ready light flashing green just like you hadn’t started it at all. If every 59 minutes you turn to off and then back to whatever setting you had it on it will run perfectly for another hour. Any ideas? Thanks. Btw I will replace igniter in spring when stove is not needed.
Joe, Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. Are you operating the PS40 on a thermostat or do you have the jumper in place just operating it with the manual heat settings? Let us know – you can reply direct to taylorm@pellethead.com. We are happy to help troubleshoot and whenever you do need that replacement igniter we will guarantee the best price and fastest shipping.
Thanks for the help. I had the stove installed in 2008 and it just has the manual control heat setting knob. No external thermostat. I had replaced the fuse for the igniter earlier but still would not light. Therefore I’m sure the igniter needs to be replaced. However the stove has been working fine until a few days ago by using manual lighting in burn pot. Can’t figure out why it will only run one hour and then go to ready mode. Thanks again for your expertise.
My 2015 pelpro stove won’t ignite. It seems to be getting worse, the other day I restarted and put back the overflown pellets into the hopper about 10 times in a row before I felt heat spent 2 hours sitting next to it adjusting air intake hoping something would happen..eventually it caught flame but constantly kept going out no longer feeding pellets, just restarting over and over. Now there is no heat and just fills up the pot and starts blinking red…qhT should I do?
Often times when igniters fail, they just don’t “burn out”, they get weak over time. Generally when this happens you may notice the firepot overfilling with pellets or slow, Smokey start ups. These igniters are just too weak to get the fire going. If you have an Ohm meter you can trace back your igniter wire leads and check the resistance across both leads. “OL” or open line will tell you that your igniter needs to be replaced. If you do not have a multi-meter handy, be sure the fire pot is clean of ash, clinkers, or anything obstructing the air inlet holes. Assuming you have dry pellets feeding into the fire pot, and plenty of air from combustion blower, all that is left is heat from your igniter which by sounds of it just is no longer hot enough. Keep in mind, you can always manually light your stove with products like fire starter gel. These products come in handy when something like this happens in the middle of winter and your waiting for that service tech or part to arrive.
I have a lennox country insert I have put in two new ignitors and the pot does not ignite, I have used a torch to get it started and it works. what is the problem?
Sincere apologies on our delay here. There was a glitch with blog messages and alerts coming through. Are you still having difficulty with the ignition in your Winslow PI40? Do note that the installation and placement of the igniter in these models is finicky. Few tips:
1. Two inlet air holes should be oriented East and West, not North and South. N & S would plug one hole reducing air flow by 50%.
2. Hose clamp should securely hold igniter in place but not cover air inlet holes.
3. Burn pot should be centered and igniter tube pushed up flush. Some dealers say to leave a 1/8” air gap which is incorrect. Air gap will allow cooler air to mix with the super heated tube air and slow the process.
4. When the burn pot is removed and placed back into the firebox- you can bump the igniter back little by little and eventually create a gap.
5. Igniter should be horizontal when installed and not pointing downward. Use of a level can help to ensure it is perfectly horizontal.
6. If ignition problems persist after installation, double check the air intake damper located on the backside of the fire wall. Maybe it is adjusted too far out or in.
7. Double check the Ohms of the igniter with an multi-meter. Proper Ohms for the Winslow Igniter Element should be around 36 give or take a few either way.
Hope that is helpful, let us know if you need any further assistance.
My Harmon Accentra pellet stove will not light. After reading all the post I thought it was a igniter issue. I replaced the igniter but it still will not light. the igniter does not get hot at all with either the old or new igniter? The unit is clean and Harmon wasn’t much help. Everything else seems to be working and the unit was working fine until I let it run out of pellets. Any trouble shooting ideals would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
We should first verify the igniter. The best way is to check resistance using an Ohm meter. Your igniter should read around 47-49ohms. Next, is the igniter getting voltage? Your igniter gets its power from the control board. This should be the same as the outlet. Example: Outlet stove is plugged into reads 115v, so should your igniter lead. Anything different may suggest control board is defective. Third, do the igniter light & feed motor lights turn on? This indicates “start up mode.” If it does not, your issue is likely a vacuum error and would require more trouble shooting.
Recently purchased an ignitor for a Harman Pc45, installed new ignitor and air pump. Ignitor turned red hot and light pellets quickly, tried to restart stove today, all lights are on but the ignitor does not seem to be working. What suggestions do you have as to the next step to correct this
Thanks for contacting us, our apologies for the delayed response. A glitch in our site occurred not allowing us to see the blog messages here until now. Are you still having difficulty with the igniter/ignition in your PC45? The PC45 igniter relies on the air pump for proper ignition. Being you replaced both and at first it started fine, we will want to take a closer inspection. Always check the simple things first. Check the tubing from the air pump and make sure it is secure with no cracks or leaks. Check the burnpot itself to ensure the holes aren’t blocked by ash or clinker formation. Shut the unit down and unplug for 1 minute to allow a reset and then retry. If you are still having difficulties please let us know, we are always happy to assist.
I’m having trouble with my Lennox Winslow PS40 Stove. I just had a yearly cleaning and replaced the proof of fire switch. After the cleaning I had problems getting the stove to work. I straightened the burn pot and it worked perfectly fine. Now a day or two later, the stove starts up, the pellets burn, the fan turns on, then the ignition light won’t go off and the stove won’t feed any more pellets into the stove. After a few minutes it goes into an ignition error code. What could be the issue? Thank you!
Thanks for contacting us, sincere apologies on our delay as there was a glitch not allowing us to see the pending blog messages here. Based on what you are describing there could be a few potential areas to look at. With the Winslow it has to go through proper start-up sequence with the Proof of Fire Switch and the Vacuum Switch locking in before the control board can go into its normal operating mode. Always check the simple things first such as thoroughly cleaning your burnpot, making sure it’s seated correctly, and making sure the igniter is butted up right to the back. From there, double check your door gasket seal, ash pan gasket seal, along with the ash traps and vent pipe to make sure there isn’t an accumulation of ash or any obstructions. If you are still having difficulty please let us know, we are happy to see how we can assist.
We just bought a Kozi Previa and installed it to get ahead of this winter storm! Last week our old farmhouse hit 46 degrees so we knew we had to do something. This was a matter of which dealer had what in stock fast, so not my first choice.
It’s installed, it’s filled with pellets, the auger ran and dropped pellets into the burn pot. But this thing just won’t ignite!
I’ve got the air damper open, I see some red glow from the igniter, but still nothing! I do also hear the fan blowing (the convection fan I’m guessing).
Thanks for contacting us, apologize on our delayed response as there was a glitch not allowing us to view the pending blog messages here. Keep in mind that it is the combustion air rushing past the igniter that lights the fire. The super heated air is what creates ignition, not the igniter element itself. Make sure the door and ash pan seals are tight all the way around, as well as the gasket between the glass and door frame. Any leakage of air will cause issues with the ignition/start-up of the stove. Secondly make sure the burnpot is seated properly and that all of the holes are free and clear. Double check the intake port underneath the firepot that runs back to the rear of the stove. Make sure there aren’t any obstructions there. Make sure the exhaust fan/combustion blower appears to be operating correctly; again this motor is what provides the air in which will light your fire. Lastly the igniter itself can be checked to see if it’s operating at proper Ohms. In some cases the igniter may be getting red but not to the point where it should be to properly light the fire. If you are still having difficulties please let us know, happy to see how we can assist.
Just changed the igniter on our Avalon Astoria and noticed it stays glowing all the time ,did I hook something up wrong? I don’t remember this always staying cherry red regardless of stove running or not
Your igniter should shut down after the stove has completed it’s start up cycle. For many units this is done using a low limit switch often referred to as a “Proof of fire.” In your case, if the igniter never powers down it is likely a control board issue. Maybe caused by the original igniter when it failed and fused direct power to the element 100% of the time. If this is not corrected, every igniter you install will ultimately burn out prematurely.
i have a King 5502M pellet stove and am having trouble getting it lit. the stove will run like normal, the draft fan and the auger run normally the basket is clean and it worked perfectly yesterday until i shut it down, cleaned it, and tried to start it up again, the ignitor/hot rod gets hot but doesn’t seem to be getting hot enough to light. is it possible i damaged something while cleaning? no error messages showing, everything else seems to work normally. the pellets look like they are getting charred but never actually light. yesterday it started just fine but now nothing.
thanks
Jim
Its not likely that you ruined the igniter by simply cleaning the stove. It is more likely something did not get put back in place correctly which could redirect or change air flow which is just as important as is the heat from the igniter for combustion. I would re-trace your steps. Maybe you bumped the air damper adjustment during the process? It is also possible the igniter is getting weak and could need replacement. Igniters tend to slowly get less and less hot over time while others work one day and completely burn out the next day.
I have a Country Stoves ps40 that won’t ignite. I’ve tried the following steps:
1. Thorough cleaning including burn pot holes, around ignitor, and exhaust pipe.
2. Burn pot it nearly up against ignitor, it can’t rotate much before it bumps it.
3. Ignitor is glowing orange, it does heat the pot and pullets a bit, but they don’t ignite. When it fails to ignite I can fell some heat in the pot but not much.
4. The hose clamp on the ignitor isn’t blocking the holes.
5. I checked the ignitor with a mulitmeter and got about 90 Ohms.
6. The combustion blower is running, and there is air coming out of the exhaust.
All good checks here. Some igniters burn out, and some igniters simply just get weak. Your igniter is weak. At 90 Ohms it is still drawing power which allows it to heat up and give you the glow you mentioned, however a good strong igniter should read closer to 36 ohms. As the amperage goes down, the resistance (ohms) goes up. At 90 ohms your igniter is only drawing half the amperage it should be. Your installation sounds good.
I have a KING 5500m pellet stove. It was working fine before i turned it off now it wont start back up. i check the code online and it said it was the thermostat on burn box. it said remove side panel and follow the wires back to thermostat on burn box. i can clearly see all wires,going to both fans,the vac pump,and igniter. those are all im seeing anywhere. they said theres a reset button on the thermo and i need to reset it but i cant find it.
Thanks for contacting us. Sincere apologies on our delay, there was glitch not allowing us to see the pending blog messages here. Good that you inspected all of those areas. The high limit Snap Switch in most King models will have a reset button in the middle. If that switch has tripped, it won’t allow the stove to run until that reset button has been pushed. Typically the High Limit Thermo Switch with reset is located near the convection/room air fan on the back firewall or it is located on the outside of the outer auger shaft chute. Generally that switch will have a temp rating on it of 200 or 250 degrees. You also want to pay close attention to why that switched tripped. In some cases it can simply be a faulty switch, but most of the time it trips as a safety concern if the unit got too hot. Thoroughly inspect the convection/room air fan to make sure it is running correctly at proper voltage. Secondly this switch can trip if it feels the firebox gets too hot or pellets start burning up the chute. Generally this is caused by either leaky door/ash pan gasket seals and/or cleaning issues with the stove. Double check all gasket seals and give the the unit a thorough cleaning including all ash traps, exhaust manifold, and exhaust vent pipe areas. Any other troubles or assistance needed please let us know. We do offer several parts for the King line of stoves and are happy to help however we can.
I just purchased a new pelpro 130, the igniter glows red but does not ignite the pellets,goes into second attempt to fire up and does not ignite then goes into shut down mode.
Hi Harry. There are a couple things to check here, you can put the igniter on an OHMS meter to make sure it is within optimum range. If the igniter tests fine then it is most likely an air flow issue – you would want to make sure the burn pot is cleaned out, the exhaust motor is working properly and your seals around the door are good. One last thing to check would be if there is any moisture in the pellets.
I have a vogelzang 5790 and when I first turn it on the light it smokes and smokes it smokes out of the unit aid about 4mins then it finally lights when it lights it stops smoking
Why does it take so long to start?
Thanks for the message, apologies on our delayed response. Could potentially be a few things. Always start with the simple things first. Some things to note and check. Remember that it is the super heated air coming around your igniter that lights the stove, not necessarily the element itself.
1. Firepot/Burnpot – Make sure the burnpot is seated properly and all the air holes are fully open. If the burnpot is not seated properly combustion air will leak and not be concentrated around the igniter. If any of the air holes are plugged it will restrict air flow causing more smoke and a longer period of time to start. Use a small screwdriver or pic tool to ensure all holes are fully opened.
2. Check your front door gasket seal and ash pan door gasket seal if applicable. Make sure they are sealing tight and there is strong resistance all the way around. Any slight air leak in your firebox will reduce the negative pressure and steal the air away from your burnpot. This can also result in a less than desirable fire and inefficient burn. Most gasket seals should be replaced every 4-6 seasons on average.
3. Make sure your ash traps, exhaust manifold, and Vent pipe is clean and free from ash and any other obstruction. Same here, any blockage will reduce the air coming to your firepot.
4. Check your combustion/exhaust motor – make sure it appears to be running at proper voltage and speed.
5. Lastly you can check your igniter with a multi-meter for proper Ohms. Over time the igniter element can get weak.
Any other questions let us know. We do offer several parts for the Vogelzang line and always guarantee the best prices.
Hello, I have a Harman pc45 corn/pellet stove. It’s entire life has only been wood pellets burned. About a December last year I replaced the igniter and seemed to work well. In February I ordered another igniter after that one from December quit. By the end of March we were stuck lighting the stove in manual mode and then didn’t need to use it much longer. This October, upon first startup of the year it blew the fuse on the control panel in the auto ignition cycle. It would also blow the fuse after about 30 mins of running in manual mode. I cut an extension cord and hard wired the igniter to find that it was not working. When I ordered the igniter my dealer said maybe the air pump that blows air down through the igniter was going bad and taking them out so I ordered that too. I hooked all the new stuff up, and nothing changed. The air pump is clearly running, the lights for everything are turning on including the igniter but nothing ignites. The other baffling thing with all this is that with all the igniters I’ve put it this stove, the air pump runs constantly, even in manual mode. Clearly somethings going wrong here and I really am not too interested in putting another grand into this stove. Any help would be great. Thank you!
Travis
Thanks for contacting us. Very sorry to hear about all of the troubles with your PC45. Yes, the air pump is crucial in the ignition of this unit. A weak or non-working air pump will quickly burn out igniter elements. With your current issues of the air pump running constantly even in manual mode, tells me that there is more than likely an issue with the circuit board in your stove. The air pump should only be on during the start-up sequence, the control/circuit board dictates this. It could also be a potential issue with the ESP Exhaust Thermister Probe. If that probe was not sensing temperature correctly it will give bad signal to the board causing various points to not operate as they should.
First thing I would suggest is pulling out the ESP probe and cleaning it thoroughly. See if anything changes. If it does not, unfortunately I would tell you that it is more than likely a circuit board issue and/or combination ESP Probe issue. We do offer all parts and guarantee the best prices anywhere.
Below are links you may find helpful on cleaning the ESP Probe and installing a new control board. I’ve also put in links for the parts themselves. If you need any further assistance please let us know, we’ll do everything we can to get you back up and running at 100% again for the least amount of cost.
Winslowps40 pellet stove lites up burns for 10-15 min then auger quits in beginning process igniter lite keeps flashing until stove shuts down we have checked the cleaning of flues and fuses when stove shuts down lites turn red ready lite constant 2 short flashes on igniter
Thanks for contacting us. Sounds like you are either having an issue with the vacuum switch locking in or with the Proof of Fire Low Limit Snap Switch locking in. For TESTING PURPOSES ONLY, you can bypass those switches one at a time to help determine where the issue is. Below is a video link that will show you how. In addition to making sure the stove and vent is clean as you have, I would also suggest you check the gasket seals around the door and ash pan to ensure they are tight all the way around. Any air leak there will not allow the vacuum switch to lock in after initial start-up causing the stove to shut down. Any questions please let us know. We do offer all parts for the Winslow PS40 and guarantee the best prices should you need anything. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDVkbsHS95U
We had a Greenfire GF40 Pellet Stove installed with fresh air intake about a month ago. It is hooked up to a thermostat and on a setting of On/Off. Damper, Feed Trim, and Combustion Air Trim are all set to the factory defaults and I have checked the air by using a gauge to ensure it is within 0.1 and 0.13. Heat Output is set to 3. We clean it once a week. We noticed a couple times that the burn pot fills up with pellets and the stove control panel Mode and #3 light are flashing but the stove isn’t lit. When I hit the ON/Off button it comes back on just like normal. Is this a case of the igniter not working correctly or am I missing something? I made sure the burn pot is clean of debris and pushed back to the igniter and even used some compressed air to clean the air flow and igniter. Since it is brand new I am not sure if this could be either a combustion problem or an igniter problem. It happened the first time within a couple weeks and now twice in the last 24 hours. The combustion air trim default is only a 2 out of 5 so I wasn’t sure if adjusting that could help the problem. Thank you
Thanks for contacting us. The Regency line of pellet stoves is not one that we have carried although we do offer some replacement parts for them. Most pellet stoves are similar however in the basic overall function. Based on what you are describing it does sound like an igniter issue. It sounds like you’ve made sure the unit is clean, burnpot is clean, burnpot is seated properly and igniter appears to be in proper position. It could potentially be a faulty igniter element. The element can be checked with a multi-meter for proper ohms. Unfortunately we wouldn’t know what that ohm reading should be on that particular igniter element. You may want to call Regency direct and see if they can provide you that info. They should also be able to assist you with the Warranty aspect of things should it be a defective part being the unit is essentially brand new.
Important to also inspect the venting, door gasket, and ash pan gasket if applicable. If there was any leak in the firebox area it can create this issue and if there was anything blocking the vent pipe it could also be creating this issue. You can also take a multi-meter to the combustion blower as it should be operating near line voltage during the start-up mode. Keep in mind that it is the super heated air rushing around the igniter that is actually lighting the fire. Being you have fresh air installed, thoroughly check and inspect that intake hose. Anything blocking that will definitely cause an issue with ignition and function. Always start with and check the simple things first.
Hope that helps, sorry we couldn’t provide further insight on this one.
Thanks for contacting us. To better assist we would need more info such as your stove make and model. Igniters can also be checked with a multi-meter for proper Ohms. Each igniter style is different however as to the correct ohm reading it should have to be in operable condition.
Thanks for contacting us, apologies on our delay. Our main technician indicated the following:
Three individual causes or a combination of these three.
1. Igniter burnt out, no longer glowing.
2. Igniter tube plugged – vacuum out regularly, could have caused #1.
3. Damper position – right side.
4. General cleaning, stove airflow, burnpot blockage.
I have a Whitfield Optima and Profile Advantage T300P Series, Profile 30-2. I am having issues with ignites burning out way too often. I just put a new one in to replace one that only lasted 2 weeks. I have cleaned stove and replaced door gasket. Can not figure out igniter issues. Any suggestions?
Thanks for contacting us Ken. I would suggest you watch and make sure the igniter is turning off after the start-up cycle. Easiest to view from behind where you install it. After approx 15 minutes you should no longer see the red glow from the igniter. If it continues to glow red, there would most likely be an issue with the igniter timing sequence in the control board causing it to stay on which will cause burnout quite quickly. If it appears it’s shutting off after start-up as it should than I would suggest you check the igniter tube that the element threads into. Make sure the tube is not warped in anyway causing the igniter to ground out, and make sure there is nothing blocking the holes in the igniter tube. If that all looks good the only thing in my eyes it could be is a faulty element. Once in a while we run into premature burnouts due to an igniter defect. Replacement igniters should have a warranty depending on who you purchased it from. Here is our most tried and true igniter manufactured by Tempco which comes with a 1 year warranty. https://pellethead.com/product/whitfield-lennox-iron-strike-threaded-igniter-element-2/
We do also offer the igniter tube and control board as well as all other parts.
Thanks for contacting us Justin. We are not familiar with the Eco-55 Pellet Stove Model. I believe that is a Drolet model stove. We suggest that you test your igniter ohms and then contact the manufacturer regarding to see if it’s in operable range. They should also be able to assist diagnosing the Error Code you are receiving. Sorry we couldn’t be of further assistance here.
I have a Lennox T300P. The igniter works for like two days and then doesn’t work. I light it manually for a few times and then the igniter will work again for a day or two. Any ideas or suggestions as to what is not working right? I replaced the igniter and the old one actually worked when I put power to it.
Thanks for contacting us. That’s very interesting. If you have a multi-meter, ohms on the igniter for your Traditions T300P stove should have a range between 33 and 39.5. If outside of this range there may be issues with inconsistency in lighting. The combustion air passing by the igniter element is what lights the fire. You want to make sure the burnpot is seated properly, all holes are clear and the air intake throat is free of any obstructions. If your fire is burning crisp and torchy that should indicate that your gasket seals are good, you don’t have ash blockage issues, and your combustion exhaust fan is running as it should. If it’s burning lazy or sooty, you would want to check all these items and areas and that can definitely play a part in the igniter working correctly. From there the only other thing to really look at would be the circuit board – possibly the ignition timer in your control board is going out. Let us know what you find, we are happy to assist. We stock all parts for the T300P and guarantee the best prices.
I have a pleasent hearth 35p
The stove starts up fine and begins to feed pellets , then you hear the exhaust fan slow down and pellets stop feeding , the stove will go out and start restart all over again ?
Thanks for contacting us. It sounds like as the exhaust fan slows down that the stove loses negative pressure which is then tripping the vacuum switch and shutting down the fuel feed. More than likely this is either an issue with the Exhaust Fan or with the control board. See if you can isolate the exhaust fan – Run it to direct power and see if there are any fluctuations in voltage/rpm. It could also be the control board not providing proper signal to the exhaust fan causing it to run at improper voltage. Check the simple things first – I would even suggest trying a new outlet and testing the outlet with a multi-meter to ensure power is coming through correctly and constant.
Hope that helps, any other questions or needs please let us know.
HI, I have a Heatilator Eco Choices PS50 pellet stove that wont ignite. I can manually light the pellets and the stove runs fine. I tested the igniter and it’s reading 46 ohms. Any ideas on what to test next?
Thanks for contacting us. We need to check to see if you have a white wire or black wire igniter. Some of the PS50 stoves came with the 380 Watt Loop Igniter and some came with the 300 Watt Loop Igniter.
If you have a black wire igniter 46 ohms should be fine. If you have the white wire igniter then it would indicate a faulty element at 46 ohms.
Let us know what you find. If the igniter is indeed good then most likely this would be an issue with the ignition circuit in the control box. We do offer a service where we can test your control box as well.
Also, it’s important to note that it is the hot air rushing around the element that lights the fire. Make sure the igniter is secured correctly in place and that the air inlet appears to be open and free.
Hi, I have a Heatilator Eco Choice PS50 stove that will not light. The igniter does not get hot at all. I can manually light the pellets and the stove runs fine. I tested the igniter and it is reading 46 ohms. Any ideas on what to check next?