Free 2 Day Shipping on Grill, RV, HVAC, Pool Parts over $75 - Free Standard Shipping on Everything Else Over $75

England Stove Works, Englander Auger Feed Motor Service & Troubleshooting

About Englander Pellet Stove Auger Motor

Do you have an Englander pellet stove auger motor? The Englander line of pellet stoves has been notorious for premature auger motor failures.

The original factory auger motors for both the upper and lower fuel drive were sleeve bushing motors. These motors generally created more noise during operation as well as having a shorter life span.

Need help with your Englander pellet stove auger motor? Give our team a call at (800) 236-6647 today.

Signs of A Breaking Down Englander Auger Motor

  • Aging auger motor. In most cases, Englander auger motors for pellet stoves will start to squeal/grind, turn slower, or stop working all-together when reaching the end of their life span.
  • Safety issue/faulty switches. Keep in mind that both the high limit switch and vacuum switch in the Englander stove line can shut down the auger motor operation if there is a safety issue at hand and/or if the switch or switches are faulty. If one or both of your auger motors have stopped working, the easiest way to troubleshoot is to test the auger motor to direct power.

Watch the how-to below to direct test your auger motor:

Englander Pellet Stove Auger Motor Tips

ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG YOUR STOVE FROM THE WALL WHILE PERFORMING SERVICE OR TROUBLESHOOTING

If your Englander pellet stove’s auger motor is operating correctly when given direct power, but not operating in your stove, check the simple things first:

  • Clean your fuel hopper. To start with the Englander auger motor troubleshooting process, clean out your fuel hopper and make sure there are no foreign objects or obstructions.
  • Check the wiring. Next, check the wiring going to the auger motor, high limit switch, and vacuum switch. Make sure wires are securely connected and there are no breaks or deterioration to the wires.
  • Create a ‘jumper wire’ to bypass your high limit and/or vacuum switch. Learn how here.
    • *IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to never leave a safety switch bypassed, only for troubleshooting purposes. If you bypass one of the switches and your auger motor starts working, it may be the switch itself or a safety issue at hand that is preventing the switch from locking in as it should.
    • The high limit switch will generally trip if either the burnpot gets backed up with fuel, combustion motor is weak, or the convection motor is weak or not operating properly. The vacuum switch will generally trip if the gasket seals are worn/loose around the door, ash pan or combustion motor.
    • The vacuum switch will also trip if the exhaust motor housing or venting is plugged or if the exhaust motor is weak/not operating properly.

Englander Auger Motor Replacements

Do you need to do an Englander auger motor replacement for your stove? Perform the following steps to troubleshoot your Englander stove:

  • If you require a new Englander auger feed motor for your stove, we offer top of the line replacements with the best warranty at the guaranteed lowest price with the fastest shipping. As always, we offer lifetime service and support with all purchases. With the Nations top NFI tech team, we are confident in getting issues resolved and getting you the right parts you need the first time around.
  • The majority of Englander stove models will use a 1 RPM Counter Clockwise auger motor for both the upper and lower auger drives. Some models will use a 2 RPM and some models will use a 4 RPM auger motor. Double check your motor label or owners manual and please contact us for assistance if you require help.
  • Most original factory auger motors had direct spades on the motor for electrical connection. Our replacement motors have upgraded wire leads for connection and will connect to the wires coming to the auger motor in the same fashion. It does not matter which lead wire connects to which colored wire from the auger motor when installing.

Englander Auger Motor Installation

For installation of your Englander auger motor, most models have a simple set screw that you loosen and then wiggle the auger motor to come off. In other models, there may be a cotter/set pin holding the auger motor to the auger shaft. We do offer both styles of motors for easy installation and correct replacement.

If your auger motor attaches with a set screw, make sure when installing the new motor that the flat side of the motor shaft is lined up with the set screw before tightening and that the motor is inserted all the way in to the auger shaft/collar.

Links For All Englander Auger Feed Motor Replacements:

Need to perform an auger feed motor replacement for a specific motor? Check out the links below.

1 RPM CCW Motor Englander Auger Motor Replacement:

2 RPM CW Motor Englander Auger Motor Replacement:

4 RPM CW Motor Englander Auger Motor Replacement:

*In the event you need to reverse the direction of your Englander auger motor, watch this video.

Contact Us for Englander Pellet Stove Auger Motor Help

If your Englander pellet stove isn’t working, it may be the auger feed. Follow the steps provided in this article, or get in touch with our team for further assistance. We are always happy to assist. If you have any questions or need further assistance please contact us.

There are many benefits to opting for a pellet stove for alternative heating. While Englander pellet stove auger motors do have a tendency to fail, Englander pellet stoves still do provide a great source of heat for you and your family. If you found this blog post helpful we would love a comment from you.

Sincerely,

Mr. Pellethead


45 thoughts on “England Stove Works, Englander Auger Feed Motor Service & Troubleshooting

    1. Kevin,

      Thanks for contacting us. In most cases when it appears to much fuel is feeding it’s actually a lack of combustion air or combustion air being lost somewhere. Cleaning and Maintenance is the #1 factor. Make sure you thoroughly clean and inspect all areas of the stove and exhaust vent piping. Ash accumulation/blockage is the #1 cause to the appearance of overfeeding of fuel. Be sure to also check your door and ash pan door gasket seals. Any leaks here will be a loss of combustion air. Thoroughly check and inspect your burnpot to make sure it’s seated properly and all holes are free and clear. Inspect your combustion air inlet from underneath the burnpot to the rear of the stove to ensure there are no restrictions. Inspect and check your combustion blower – you can also use a multi-meter to make sure it’s operating at correct voltage during start-up and on the various heat settings.

      If your feed motor is running constantly or there is no variation in the start and stop times of the feed motor as you adjust to various heat levels, then in most cases that would be an issue with the control board itself. If this is the case we suggest you contact Englander direct at Heatredefined.com to ensure you get the correct replacement control board for your make/model/year stove.

      Hope that is helpful.

      Thanks,
      ESESstoves

  1. Upper auger is getting stuck in the same spot on each rotation…if I lift the motor it will move the auger past the spot and rotate until gets to that spot again…any ideas??? Motor is newly replaced as is entire auger assembly

    1. Steve,

      Thanks for contacting us. That’s odd being the motor and auger assembly have been recently replaced. Something has to be binding it in that specific spot where it is getting stuck. Some kind of obscurity must be there causing the issue. Possibly pull out that motor and auger shaft again and thoroughly inspect the tube for any abnormalities in that area and/or anything foreign obstructing.

      Happy to help anyway we can.

      Thanks,
      ESESstoves

  2. The upper augur motor has stopped working. Pulled the motor out and the shaft is dug up beyond repair. This is now the 2nd motor this has happened to. Can you please tell me what’s wrong?

    1. Thanks for contacting us Erin, happy to assist. If the shaft of the auger motor is dug up/mangled up that would give indication that something is potentially binding with the auger shaft inside the auger shaft tubing. I would suggest cleaning all the pellets out of the hopper and pull out that upper auger shaft completely so you can thoroughly inspect the auger shaft and housing to see if there is anything off or any obstructions that are causing binding or restriction of that auger shaft flight.

      Let us know what you find, we are happy to help.

      Thanks,
      ESESstoves

  3. The flat side of the shaft is not in a good direction for me to tighten the screw. Is there a way to turn the shaft? I am unable to do it by hand..

    1. Arlene, thanks for contacting us. Happy to provide a suggestion here. You can make a test cord and plug the auger motor directly into a wall outlet. Unplug from the wall when you feel the shaft is in proper position and then go ahead and install the motor. Here is a tutorial link on creating a test cord. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlmiCYI2WPk&t=4s

      Any other questions please let us know.

      Thanks,
      ESESstoves

  4. My feed won’t adjust? The bottom auger goes the same speed no matter if it’s o. Highest setting (9) or the lowest (1). What could cause it to not change speed???

    1. Edward,

      Thanks for contacting us. I would say that would indicate an issue with the circuit board. Your best bet will be to contact Englander direct with the make, model, and serial number of your stove for assistance with the circuitry or board replacement – their site is heatredefined.com.

      Hope that helps.

      Thanks,
      ESESstoves

    2. Cody,

      Thanks for contacting us. If the speed/on-off times of the auger motor in normal operation does not change from high to low, then more than likely it is an issue with the circuit board. For Englander circuit boards you will want to contact Englander direct – their site is heatredefined.com

      Hope that helps,
      ESESstoves

  5. The armature on my lower auger motor won’t spin even though the motor itself has power and is running. I removed it and it looks clean, nothing caked on it. It also gets really hot to the touch, not sure if that’s normal or not. Thank you for any assistance you can give.

    1. Thanks for contacting us. The armature spindle should spin freely when the motor is out of the unit (not under load). It’s normal for auger motors to get hot to the touch – Shouldn’t be scorching hot, but will get very hot to the touch. As long as it’s still operating and functioning you should be fine. If the motor starts to no longer operate correctly or gets loud then more than likely a replacement will be needed.

      Any other questions please let us know.

      Thanks,
      ESESstoves

  6. My upper auger motor appears to be running intermittently as it should be. However, the upper auger sometimes turns well and sometimes barely turns. Can they become loose? What else could be the problem?

    1. Thanks for the message Lisa, happy to help. Sounds like the gears in the upper auger are getting worn out. When an auger motor starts to be intermittent with it’s operation/turning, in most cases it is the gears in the motor wearing out. You can certainly check the the connection to the auger. Some models used a cotter pin and others a flat set screw to hold in place. Any other questions or if you need guidance for a replacement please let us know.

      Appreciated,

      1. my top auger isn’t feeding ,I’ve cleaned an checked for jams . Removed the motor an did a test an it turns,put it back but the auger still doesn’t turn?I’ve also did the bypass test on the vac switch. what should I try an how can I manually check to see if the auger will turn? At a loss for what to do.

        1. Hey Cay, happy to assist. Glad you checked to make sure the auger shaft is free and clear and not jammed. When you removed the motor to test and it turned, did you do any kind of a torque test? When you put the motor back in the stove was it humming or trying to turn? Or did it seem like no power was coming to it? Let’s see if we can determine if the motor is getting power and is just weak or if the motor is not getting power. If it’s not getting power, than next to check would be the high limit switch. You can bypass just like you did the vac switch by connecting the two wires together. ONLY FOR TROUBLESHOOTING, NEVER LEAVE A SAFETY SWITCH BYPASSED. Keep us posted with what you discover, happy to assist however we can.

        2. So I have had the exact same issue with my stove. When I replaced the electric motor and gear box I opened it up to find one of the gears broke into multiple pieces. I normally get about two seasons out of my auger motors because mine run for days on end without shutting them down to cool off. Hope this helps bud

    1. Thanks for contacting us Justin. What is the make and model stove you have? More than likely this is a safety switch not locking in as it should, most likely the proof of fire low limit switch. Let us know the make and model and we will assist best we can. Thanks!

  7. Top auger on my englander is acting up. Stove seems to run fine for a while, and then top auger stops turning and fire goes out. Checked vacuum switch and it appears fine, cleaned stove thoroughly (on top of regular weekly cleanings). It seems like when the top auger stops working, if I press the start button again it runs fine. Should I just replace that top motor, or could this be a circuit board issue? Or something else I’m not thinking of?

    1. Thanks for contacting us Ben, happy to help. If the top auger motor is intermittently working, in most cases that would be an issue with the motor itself or with the vacuum switch. You can take the motor out of the stove and do a torque test on it; potentially the gears are just getting weak. Video here for creating a test cord. Grab an old rag and a pliers and grip the motor shaft. Plug in to direct wall power. You should not be able to stop that shaft from turning if it has proper torque. https://youtu.be/rlmiCYI2WPk.

      If the motor is fine, we will want to check the vacuum switch and common causes for it to trip.
      1. Make sure the door gasket, glass gasket and ash pan gasket if applicable is sealing tight all the way around.
      2. Make sure the unit, ash traps and venting have been thoroughly cleaned
      3. Double check the voltage on your exhaust motor. Should be near line voltage on start-up and when running on high setting.
      4. Check the vacuum switch hose/tubing. Make sure there are no cracks.
      Also videos here for further information on the vacuum switch as well as creating a jumper wire for troubleshooting.
      Jumper Wire: https://youtu.be/FDVkbsHS95U
      Vacuum Switch: https://youtu.be/pHeQzUmSlIE

      Keep us posted. Thanks!

  8. My upper auger won’t work swaped wires with lower auger and works fine . Motor isn’t getting power . By passed the safety switch still not power I thinking the ground is bad ?

    1. Thanks for contacting us. We would suggest using a volt-meter and tracing the power from the upper auger motor wires to see where the power is being cut. Inspect the wires and wire harness closely to see if there are any breaks, cracks or disconnection. Happy to help.

      Thanks,

  9. Hello, I have an England stove that I’m having a problem with but not with the augur. This is just the only place I saw an England stove troubleshooting article.

    I’ve prepared the stove for colder weather; cleaned it, checked all the connections, chimney sweep, etc. The stove runs great for about 8-12 hours, then shuts off displaying an E1 code. Did some research, saw that it was a vacuum seal error code. Did some more checking around the stove and saw the vacuum hose was cracked due to age where it connects to the blower. Replaced the hose, rechecked all connections, but again, 12 hours and it turns itself off. Is there something else I can do?

    1. Thanks for contacting us Cody. Very interesting that the stove would run for this length of time before shutting down and giving you the E1 error code. Let’s double check the door and ash pan gasket (if applicable on your model). Stick a piece of paper half in, half out – shut the door, see how much resistance there is. Should be heavy resistance. Check in multiple areas around the door. Be sure the stove is off while doing this gasket test.

      How does your fire look when it’s operating? Does it appear crisp and torchy or is it lazy in anyway?

      May be good to see if there are voltage irregularities on the combustion blower from start-up to 1 hr in, 5hrs in, 8hrs in etc.. Possible we could be losing voltage and RPM over time when running causing the vac switch to trip.

      Being that you thoroughly cleaned the unit and venting, only other thing I can think of would be that the vac switch itself may be acting up in operation. It’s rare as normally if there is an issue it’s going to happen right away not 8-12 hours in.

      One last thing that came to mind – is there any heavy wind that may be blowing into the outside exhaust vent pipe? Wind blowing in the vent pipe can trip the vacuum switch.

      Keep us posted. Thanks.

  10. Hello, I’m trying to solve a problem with my englander pellet stove. It’s a 25-pdv from sept 06. My top auger stopped working. I replaced the auger motor and it still wasnt working. I replaced the vacuum sensor and fixed the cracked hose. The auger started working fine. I put the back panel back on the stove, moved the stove back into place and reattached the exhaust pipe. Pup pellets in the hopper, started the fire and now the auger is not working again.

  11. Englander pellet stove, top auger kicks on & off and only works when it wants too. Should I replace motor or does this sounds like a circuit board issue? You can hear it try kicking on but only works 50% of time. Replaces hopper safety switch first and still not working. Please send me your advise! Thank you

    1. Thanks for contacting us Wendy, sorry to hear of the troubles.

      Based on what you said, I’m guessing that either the vac switch hose came loose when you reattached to the vent pipe OR there is blockage somewhere in the vent pipe that is causing the vacuum switch to not lock in. Let’s thoroughly check and clean your venting first and make sure there are no obstructions. Let’s make sure your door, ash door, and hopper door are sealing tightly all the way around.

      Keep us posted, happy to help.

    1. Hey Gloria,

      Happy to help. If an auger motor is intermittently working, generally that is a sign of the motor getting week. You can always pull the motor out and bench test it to check operation and torque. Here’s a video on how to create a test cord and do that. Always good to double check the connection of the auger motor to the auger shaft as well to ensure it’s secure/not slipping. Keep us posted, happy to help and send reference links to get you back up and running.
      https://youtu.be/rlmiCYI2WPk

  12. I replaced my auger gearbox and now it is throwing crazy heat on 1. We have to turn the stove off multiple times a day where before we could run all day on 5-7. It’s also eating at least a bag every 12 hours on 1 it never did that before. Wondering if there’s an adjustment?

        1. Thanks for contacting us. Depending on the Englander model you have will determine which auger motor you need. Englander models will use either a 1 RPM, 2 RPM, or 4 RPM auger motor. There is also a difference in price from aftermarket to OEM motors. Most we carry will range from $42.00 to $79.00. Here is a link for reference. https://pellethead.com/?s=englander+auger+motor

          Any other questions please let us know.

          Thanks,

  13. After a jam in my upper auger which shut down the stove, it would not stay running after clearing the jam and restarting the unit. I thought the upper auger motor was damaged by the jam, so I replaced it with a brand new one. Same problem. for the first few minutes of operation after restart, the upper auger turns normally. Then, instead of its normal run cycle lasting about 5-10 seconds every 30 seconds or so, it only runs for about 1-2 seconds, which is not long enough to keep the lower auger fed, and the stove eventually shuts down with E-2 code. The upper auger operation is fine for the first few minutes, but then starts this short run cycle. So it’s not likely the auger motor, but something else. What other issue could a jammed upper auger cause to the stove? This is an older 25-PDVC probably bought at Home Depot 20 years ago.

    1. Thanks for contacting us. The control/circuit board is giving power and signal to the auger motor during start-up and normal operation. Safety switches such as the vacuum switch and high limit switch are in-line with the auger motor and can shut down power to the auger motor if there is an issue or if faulty. In your case the new auger motor is running, but the cycles of the motor are not normal causing the stove to shut down with an E2 error. Before determining that this is a control board issue, I think it will be good to inspect the upper auger again along with the auger shaft. The 25-PDVC model will use a 1 RPM Counter Clockwise Auger Motor. Direction is determined when facing the motor shaft. Let’s pull that auger motor out and run it to direct power. Check the rotation first and then check to see if you are getting 1 full turn on the shaft after 60 seconds of run time. Video on creating a test cord to do this: https://youtu.be/rlmiCYI2WPk?si=q5kOtKlSiOyiXtDm
      If the auger motor checks out good, let’s inspect the auger shaft, flights on the shaft, and interior housing where the auger shaft sits. Check to see if there are any breaks, cracks, or visible damage to the auger shaft that is creating an issue.

      Keep us posted, happy to help.

      1. Thanks for the advice. The stove is working now, but I really didn’t do anything except unplug it for a while, then restart it. The new auger motor is working correctly now. However, I am going to replace the vacuum tube because it is now very brittle, and the window glass and gasket due to a crack in the glass.

        1. Sure thing Gary, happy to help. Very interesting, could be very well be an intermittent loss of air causing the vacuum switch to lock and unlock. Yes, if the vac hose is brittle replace that. If there is a crack in the glass this could be the air loss point and we would recommend replacement with a new glass gasket. If you need any references for replacement parts or need additional assistance, just let us know.

          Thanks,

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *