Welcome Back to Pellet Tech 101!
Most Harman pellet and corn stove models will have a control board that has a status light. The status light is designed as a troubleshooting tool indicating areas that need to be addressed through blink sequences. There have been several control/circuit board versions and variations over the years with Harman; your best reference for status light error codes will be the owners manual that came with your appliance.
The 4 Output Platinum Control Board, part 3-20-05374, 1-00-05886 is the most common Harman replacement control board. This control board is correct for the Harman Accentra 52I, Accentra FS (Accentra Cast), Accentra Insert, Advance, P35I Insert, P43, P61A, P68, XXV (25th Anniversary Model), and Mark I coal stove. Harman’s most current platinum control board will have the following status light blink sequences.
1 Blink: Indicates a control board self diagnostic failure. This requires a manual reset*.
2 Blinks: Indicates an open vacuum switch error. This requires vacuum switch inspection and replacement if faulty.
3 Blinks: Indicates E.S.P. (exhaust sensing probe) failure. This requires a manual reset* and ESP probe cleaning and replacement if faulty.
4 Blinks: Can occur only in Room Temp Mode and indicates Room Sensing Probe failed or not installed. If a Room Sensing Probe is then installed, the status light will automatically reset. In PF100/PF120 furnace models, this only occurs in automatic mode. Indicates the wall control thermostat has failed or is not installed. If the wall control is then installed the error will automatically reset after the furnace warms up. Note: The furnace will not start in “auto” with this error status.
5 Blinks: (In Igniter Auto Mode Only): Indicates that the unit has failed to light within the 36 minute start cycle. For PF100/PF120 furnace models, this indicates the unit has failed to ignite after 4
consecutive 8 minute attempts. To reset – Turn Mode Selector to “OFF”, then turn to either mode again. We recommend thorough cleaning of the burnpot, burnpot holes, burnpot igniter area, and igniter OHM check.
6 Blinks: Indicates that the control board has calculated poor or incomplete combustion occurring for more than 25 minutes. A six blink status may be set if the stove is allowed to run out of pellets. To reset, turn mode selector to “OFF” then back on to the desired mode. If the unit was not out of pellets, further troubleshooting will be required.
7 Blinks: Only applicable on the PB105 and HF60 boiler control boards. Indicates water over-temp. Reference your owners manual for common causes and solutions.
* Manual reset – disconnect power cord for a few seconds and reconnect. If error still occurs leave us a comment or contact us.
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I plug pellet stove to power source no statas light fuse is good has 118 volts to the board bad board???
Thanks for contacting us. If there is no power light or status light and you have tested voltage as mentioned at 118v coming into the board, fuse is good, then yes we would highly lean toward the control board being non-operable. Was your stove plugged in to a surge protector? Has there been any recent voltage spikes? Do you have a Harman dealer near you that can test the control board? Also may be good to pull the board out and physically inspect it. Here’s a control board installation video that can be a helpful reference. https://youtu.be/PNAkJ3jDmtM?si=ce1I0ssEutsfbq52
Thanks, happy to help.
I have a Harmon Advance pellet stove. I unplugged the stove to clean it. It was working fine. I plugged it back in and the code light blinks 3 times. I replaced the ESP probe and the fuse, as the last fuse was burnt out. Although unsure why it burned out as it was working just fine before I unplugged the stove. I made sure the ESP probe had the correct colored wires which are red. It is still blinking 3 times. What else could it be?
Thanks for contacting us. If you have made sure the ESP probe wire is properly connected to the control board and are still getting the 3 blink code, then in most cases this would indicate a control board failure. Something must have happened when unplugging the stove that burnt out the fuse and possibly shorted the control board. Inspect the board and make sure all wire connections are secure. See if there are any black or burnt spots on the control board. Double check all wires in the stove to ensure they are not exposed wires were an electrical short could take place. If possible take the control board to a local dealer for testing. Here is the replacement control board for reference. https://pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/
Keep us posted, happy to help.
i just bought a harman accentra 2 , its lights runs , then shuts down . status light blicks 6 times . the stove is on auto and feed is at 2 . am i running feed to low or ? the fan turns on and runs when up to temp , thanks if you could help ?
Thanks for contacting us Nolan, happy to help. The 6 blink will indicate ‘incomplete combustion’. How does your fire look when it is burning? Is it crisp and torchy or is it lazy in anyway? Is there any black soot forming in the firebox or coming out of the exhaust? I do not think this is an issue with the feed adjuster setting. It most likely is an issue with improper air to fuel. Do you have a fresh air intake pipe on the stove? If so, let’s double check this for restrictions. If not, let’s make sure the air intake flapper door isn’t stuck on the air intake channel. For your exhaust venting, what is the configuration? Are there multiple bends and elbows or is it a standard up and out or strait out the wall? Let’s also make sure the front door is sealing tight, the burnpot door with the wingnuts to the igniter area is on securely, the combustion plate behind the ash pan is in place correctly, and the cast iron heat exchange panels are properly in place. Happy to help troubleshoot and get things 100%. Please keep us posted. Thanks,
Stove will not start. Feed motor blinks once and the distribution blower light never comes on. Is the board bad?
Thanks for contacting us. Is the status light blinking? When you turn the feed adjuster dial to ‘Test’ do your blowers/motor lights come on? Have you checked the electrical power coming from the wall outlet. Keep us posted, happy to assist.
Put in new circuit board. Power,Status, and combustion light stay on. Feed motor and igniter do not come on. Not sure what next step should be
The blowers work on manual
XXV model. Stove does nt seem to be feeding as it shd. Has gone out, with full hopper, is set for 78deg and is putting out a small flame. It does feed, but nt for the demand that is set for. I rec replaced hopper lid latch & gasket.
Hey Jeff,
Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Do you have the original XXV model with the room temp / stove temp control dials or do you have the XXV-TC with the Digital Touch Screen? Keep us posted, thanks.
We are having the same issue, Harman XXV, we have replaced the probe, and circuit board. The stove will run for about 2 hours then shut down, pellets are full in hopper, but not in the pot. Status light blinks 6 times. At wits end trying to figure this out.
Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. The 6 blink status will indicate incomplete combustion. How does your fire look within those 2 hours? Crisp and Torchy or slightly wavy/lazy? Is your fire coming out from behind the burnpot at any point? Does this happen in both stove temp and room temp mode?
Suggested to initially check the following in your XXV:
– Burnpot Holes and Burnpot Igniter Area. With a good light and a small precision screwdriver or similar tool, make sure all holes are open in the burnpot. Open the burnpot cover plate and make sure that all ash/fines are cleaned out of that igniter area.
– Let’s check the exhaust vent pipe to ensure we don’t have excessive ash accumulation or any blockages.
– Let’s check the combustion fan paddle area. When you open up the firebox door and pull out the ash pan, there will be a combustion plate you remove. Let’s make sure the combustion paddle doesn’t appear bent or damaged in anyway and that all ash is cleared from that combustion throat area.
Keep us posted, happy to help and get you back to 100%.
Thanks,
We have put 2 new control boards in our Harman P68 pellet stove and it is not working. The only light flashing is the power light not the status light. We have unplugged it and plugged back in several times. We can’t run it at all at this point. Everything seems to have good power running to it according to voltage reader. Could there be an issue with the pressure switch or the dip switch not right? We set it according to the type of stove according to the instructions that came with the board.
Thanks for contacting us Stacy, happy to help. Let’s check the basics first.
1. Outlet the stove is plugged into is showing 110v-120V.
2. Front Door, Ash Door, Hopper Door are closed and sealing tightly.
3. ESP Thermister Probe in the Exhaust is clean and and electrical connections are secure. (Video Here on that – https://youtu.be/kt7nnGMYU-k?si=8VKDTvWW2EiUfcN5)
4. Turn the feed adjuster dial to TEST. Does anything happen?
If you set the dipswitches correctly according to the instruction sheet they should be correct. Does not hurt to double check them. The most important is the #5 dipswitch according to the ESP probe wire color. If there was an issue with the pressure switch, the stove would not feed, but your combustion blower would still come on, so I do not believe it is that.
Let’s start there, please keep us posted. Thank you.
We have checked all of the above, when turning the dial to test nothing happens. When plugging it in the combustion blower comes on for the 3 seconds, the combustion blower light lights up briefly and the status light blinks once and stops and then the power light starts blinking and all other lights are out.
Thanks for the message back Stacy. Has to be an electrical issue here. TEST bypasses everything for the motors to run for 1 minute. If nothing is happening on test, we have an issue with either proper voltage coming into the stove or with the electrical wire harness in the unit. Suggested to get a multi-meter to determine voltage coming in and where that voltage stops. Get a good light and thoroughly inspect the wiring and connections. We want to make sure there are no bare wires and all connectors are secure to each lead component wire and wires that connect to the circuit board. Here is what the replacement wire harness looks like for reference – https://pellethead.com/product/harman-wire-harness-electrical-wiring-oem/
Keep us posted, happy to help.
Wire harness replaced and same result, power light flashing still not working on TEST.
Thanks for the message back Stacy. Very odd situation here. I’m going to discuss this situation with some of our other technicians. We will be back in touch ASAP.
We put it on TEST again and then plugged it in and the combustion blower just cuts in and out and that’s it.
Thanks for the update here Stacy. I have heard back from our lead tech. We are still heavily leaning towards this being an electrical issue somewhere in the stove. Let’s check the stove cord that plugs into the wall. If 110-120V is coming from the outlet, lets check the voltage on the end of that cord coming into the stove to see if it is delivering 110-120V in. In the P68, the combustion blower has to start before anything will happen. Let’s run the combustion blower to direct power to see if there is an issue or short in that motor – Here is a video on creating a test cord to do this https://youtu.be/rlmiCYI2WPk?si=y6SkR2hQzBPhgCGi
Keep us posted, thanks.
Hi Stacy, just wanted to check in with you and see if there are any updates after checking the electrical and combustion blower motor.
Thanks,
The cap blew off of my chimney and there was water intrusion into the back of my Advance stove. After repairing the chimney and cleaning the stove, I am getting the three-blink ESP probe failure. I looked at the probe and it appears to be fine. Is there a way to clean it before have to replace it? Thank you.
Thanks for contacting us John. Yes, let’s give the ESP Probe a good cleaning first. Here is a video that will walk you through that. Keep us posted, happy to assist. https://youtu.be/kt7nnGMYU-k?si=_fxFTECc_Q50EBO2
I am having same problem Stacy had..power light blinking all the time
Thanks for the messages Tim, I just emailed our tech team all the details. We will follow-up with you shortly.
Appreciated,
Install 2 new control boards a new stove wire harness and a new esp sensor..talked to Harmon tech support and they think its my home power problem so I had certified electrician come today and check the voltage and it is 120 all the time..Harmon tech was very rude with us today…I need some help please
Thanks Tim, good to know what has been replaced and what Harman tech support had to say. Sorry to hear they were rude with you. Our techs are reviewing/discussing, will follow-up shortly.
Thanks,
Stove will not come on at all even in test mode
Another good note here Tim as we look at what is going on. I will follow-up on the last message you sent as soon as I hear back from our technical team.
Stove is a harmon accentra insert about 7 yrs old..never had any problems with it.i do all the cleaning and maintenance to it myself till this problem started.its kinda intermittent power light might blinking steady for hrs then come on steady like its soposed to.
Hey Tim,
Just heard back from our lead tech. Given all of the information he does feel this is some kind of power issue. Let’s check a couple things:
– If your stove power cord is plugged into a surge suppressor/protector, let’s remove that and plug directly into the outlet to test.
– Let’s thoroughly inspect the 120v power cord from the stove. Make sure connections to the stove are secure and let’s check for any pinch points in the power cord.
– I know you had the electrician come out and he verified 120v from the outlet, if we can let’s double check the Polarity on the outlet with an inexpensive polarity tester to ensure the hot, neutral, and ground wires are correct.
Keep us posted, happy to help.
Thanks,
The electrician checked all that and confirmed the power seems to be correct
Also just to let you know the outlet is behind the fire prevention box that the insert slides into, so the electrician was checking power at the opposite end of cord where to connects to the stove wire harness
Pellet stove man from local harmon dealer came today and could not figure it out either so tomorrow I am gonna hook it to a portable generator and run it all day and see if it will fail.that way I will eliminate all my house power
Thanks for the reply back Tim. I think that is a smart way of troubleshooting and ruling out house power. Let’s make sure we are getting a stable 115-120V out of the generator. If possible, we want to avoid long extension cords which can effect the power supply.
Please keep us posted.
Appreciated.
What would I look for in My house currant if this Generator works..yesteryear the power light stayed on for 5 hrs on my house currant then power light started blinking..I got Generator hook up rt. Now..I still need your help please
The electrication checked voltage in and out when on house currant while power light was blinking and was still getting 118 to 120 volts
Appreciate that info Tim, the voltage is right in line on where it is supposed to be. Let us know what happens when you run it to the generator.
Thanks,
What would I look for in My house currant if this Generator works..yesteryear the power light stayed on for 5 hrs on my house currant then power light started blinking..I got Generator hook up rt. Now..I still need your help please and is there anyway I could talk to you on the phone
I also contacted the power company to come and hook up a tool to check for voltage fluctuations from the main power to my house,it will be a few days.
Did you ever hear what fixed Stacy problems on his stove??,he was having the same symptoms with his power light Blinking that I am
Aep local power company has checked power coming to the meter box, found a lug or busbar where meter snaps in burnt so now getting electrication to change out meter box, hopefully this is why my harmon accentra insert is not working correctly, will update when meter box is replaced
HI, I have a Harmon accentra insert. Im getting two blinking lights on the status. Ive replaced the vacuum switch, cleaned the stove and replaced the exhausted motor. What else can I do?
Thanks for contacting us Dan, happy to assist.
Any air loss or air blockage can cause an issue with proper function of the vacuum switch and give the 2-light blink code. Few other things we can check here besides what you have already done.
1. Vacuum Switch Hose/Tubing – Let’s make sure there are no holes or cracks in the tubing and that it is secured well. You can test the new vacuum switch you received to ensure it is correct as well – Ref https://youtu.be/kR0DQ6_YXuI?si=y9t8YgKQEf35HLz4
2. Let’s inspect the Firebox door gasket seal and glass gasket seal. Any leaks here will cause a vac error. Use a dollar bill on the door gasket, half in, half out (stove off), close the door and check resistance when you pull the bill. Check in multiple spots. Should be heavy resistance. Inspect the glass gasket with a good light to make sure there are no gaps.
3. Fuel Hopper Lid Gasket. Inspect this gasket as well, air leaks through the hopper can cause the vac error. Look for heavy wear, pitted areas, etc..
4. Double check your exhaust vent flue pipe for any blockages or obstructions. Sometimes end vent hoods and screens can cause an issue and cause a vac error. Sometimes heavy wind blowing in the pipe can cause the error. We recommend brushing out the pipe with a steel brush and rod/s. We then like to use the sucking/vacuum part of a leafblower on the exhaust outside to help pull out the vent ash and ash trapped in the exhaust manifold and heat exchange area.
If you need further resources on any of these things please let us know. Keep us posted, happy to help.
Hello. I have a harman accentra pellet stove that will not light. Runs fine if lit manually. I have thoroughly cleaned the stove and checked air intake and exhaust piping. Have changed the igniter, burn pot, control board, door gasket. The burn pot gets to hot to touch. The control board gives me a 5 blink status once the stove tries to re start. Thanks for any help.
Thanks for contacting us Randy, happy to help. During start-up sequence the igniter should get cherry hot. Do a test and leave the front cover off on the burnpot so you can see it during that start-up period. The combustion air rushing past the igniter becomes super-heated which creates ignition. Any air loss or air blockage can affect the ignition sequence. Let’s make sure all burnpot holes are open – a good light and mirror are very helpful tool. Small precision screw driver works well for clearing blocked holes. Use a scraper tool to chisel out any hard carbon build-up in the burnpot. From there let’s make sure the cradle that holds the igniter is tightened evenly and flush to the bottom of the burnpot. Make sure the air intake cavity underneath the burnpot is free and clear. Sometimes the flapper door at the air intake outlet can stick. It will also be good to double check the ohms of the igniter – although rare, we have seen replacements that are not in proper ohm range. This video will show you how to test it. https://youtu.be/z4wmCc96rVI?si=AkBjHeqioxtYAFjn When you replaced the burnpot, did you also replace the burnpot gasket? Let’s also check the fuel hopper door gasket to make sure it’s sealing well. This video will go through replacement of the igniter on a Harman, there may be some reference points that are useful here as well – https://youtu.be/i7n1SSgCPMc?si=rmyd7JDNSSNJD1a92
Keep us posted, happy to help.
Did my last post post ?
So Our local power company was here to day to turn on main power back to my house after having meter box replaced and brought everything back to code after have this all done also had to replace 200 amp breaker,pellet stove still will not work on power company power but if my generac switches on it will run …public power is dead on at 122 volts at my outset that stove plugs into and again stove will not run but generator power is 115 volts to 118 voltsat same outlet you have any thoughts?
Can you see my last post pellet head
Hey there,
I purchased a 2006 Harman XXV that needed a control board.
I replaced the control board and the stove ran perfectly for the rest of the season ( 50 bags ).
The next season roughly another 50 bags I started getting the 2 blink error. I checked the switch which was fine, I changed the door gasket, the glass gasket and the ash box gasket for no resolution.
Even though the switch was fine I replaced it and I replaced the combustion blower to make it almost all new.
In any mode the stove will run and run well till it decides to error with 2 blinks which is fixed with a reset.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Thanks for reaching out Jeremy, happy to help. Few things to look at.
1. Wind blowing in the vent pipe. This will trip the vacuum. If there’s heavy winds make sure the exhaust termination has a downward end cap or a non-combustible shield blocking wind from going into the vent pipe.
2. Ash Accumulation in the combustion chamber, rear firewall, and/or exhaust vent pipe. Sounds like you maintain the unit well, but sometimes ash can get stuck in areas that are difficult to access. If you have a Leafblower/Vacuum place the vacuum port on the vent outside (Stove off and cool). Have someone opening and closing the front firebox door while you do this. It will help remove ash accumulation from these areas.
3. Check your vacuum switch hose/tubing. Make sure there are no cracks/splits and that it is fitting tightly on both ends.
4. Make sure your hopper gasket is sealing well.
5. Let’s make sure the sawdust cleanout box is clear – https://youtu.be/l3-Wg1xRUy4?si=a6Y3i1M91w4ssrxs
Some additional info here for testing the vacuum switch – https://youtu.be/kR0DQ6_YXuI?si=ypNF5OXZ4wm-pbOl
Keep us posted, happy to help.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
The only thing to try would be to install a wind shield in front of the termination.
I do have a long exhaust for 3” that maybe contributing but it was fine.
Thanks again
Yesterday I decided to run on stove temp with the pressure switch jumped (because I was going to be home) as a test. After a few hours of running I got the two blink error.
How can I get this error with the pressure switch jumped?
My new control board messed up?
Thanks in advance
Hey Jeremy, thanks for the update. Talked to the techs. Let’s check your intake air inlet. There is a flapper door on that intake that can sometimes get stuck – let’s make sure that is opening correctly. If you have an outside air kit on the stove, let’s make sure nothing is blocking the intake vent. Keep us posted. Thanks.
Thank you for getting back to me.
Intake flapper is fine and the intake pipe is only 3’ long and clear.
With the pressure switch jumped and still getting the error I’m thinking my board is faulty.
Thoughts ?
Thanks
Hello! So glad I found this message board! I have the harman p51-2 model. Getting 4 blinks. I’m seeing online that this indicates a bad RSP, but the stove is not working in stove temp mode. Could it be something else also?
Thanks for contacting us Thomas, happy to help. You probably have a P61-2 model Harman stove (They did not manufacturer a P51). Yeah, 4 blinks would indicate an issue with the Room Sensing Probe and that fault can only occur in Room Temp Mode. When you are trying to operate it in Stove Temp mode are you getting a status light blink? Do any lights come on? When you turn your feed adjuster dial to TEST, do your 3 motors come on? Happy to help and get you back up and running.
Thanks.
Yes, p61 (typo)! And the stove is not turning on in any mode. I tried the RSP from my other stove and still nothing. When testing, I get lights for all 3 but only the blower motor is running. I did reach out to a local harman distributor and the tech has me testing the vacuum lines next. Still, any other advice is appreciated!
Hello, I have an older P61. When I adjust the distribution blower knob the indicator light dulls and the you can hear the motor surging. The indicator light also dulls but doesn’t go out. If I don’t fiddle with the knob till the light is on full the stove will shut down. It does this in room temp and stove temp mode. Otherwise when left alone and light is on steady and full the stove works fine. What do you think? Is the knob into the panel defective? Thanks
Thanks for contacting us Matteo, happy to help. This could be caused by a dirty potentiometer which is mounted to the circuit board and the shaft locks into it. There are 3 potentiometers on the circuit board for each of the shafts and knobs. Have the stove off and unplugged. Suggested to pull off the knob and pull out the shaft on your room temp/stove temp dial. If you can’t pull the shaft out with your fingers, grab a small pliers and it will pull out. Clean that potentiometer with an electrical contact cleaner (DeoxIT works nice). Spray it in there, rotate the shaft back and forth numerous times, clean any residue and let it dry fully before testing. If your shaft feels worn/wobbly we would recommend replacement of that. If the unit is still doing the same thing after this service, you most likely will require a new circuit board. Keep us posted, happy to help.
Reference Links:
Circuit Board Replacement video to see knobs and shafts: https://youtu.be/PNAkJ3jDmtM?si=KfNGYQqKR3nxLO6u
Replacement Knobs & Shafts (Expected to be in stock this week): https://pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-circuit-board-d-shaped-knob-shaft-oem/
Replacement P61 Circuit Board: https://pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/
Replacement P61A Circuit Board (Auto Ignition): https://pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/
Thanks.
Otherwise most likely board if that does not fix.
2008 xxv stove/room knob will not turn off or lower speed of fan,new red wire esp installed. Any ideas
Thanks for contacting us Mike, happy to help. Let’s inspect your circuit board. The knobs and shafts will pull out from the faceplate (Shafts can be tight sometimes, may need a pliers to pull out). See if the shaft on your stove temp/room temp dial is worn. The shaft goes into a potentiometer on the circuit board – we want to make sure the shaft is securing tightly in the potentiometer with no slop/play. If everything feels tight/secure, it’s most likely the potentiometer on the board. If this is the case it may be abled to be repaired by an electronics shop. For reference, this will be the correct control board for your 2008 XXV – https://pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/ For reference, here are the replacement knobs and shaft for your board – https://pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-circuit-board-d-shaped-knob-shaft-oem/
Keep us posted, happy to help.
Hi, I have a Harman Absolute 63 that I purchased in 2021. It works great and I clean it regularly but I recently noticed when it reaches the temp I have it set at it will quickly surge and the fan will blow hard for a second or 2 with an error message on the display screen that says “warning power shutdown with battery backup”. I did a firmware update to see if that would correct the problem as well as did a really good cleaning of the entire stove but it continues to give the error message and the surge. Any help as to what may be the issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for contacting us John, happy to assist.
Seems the control board is sensing or falsely detecting a power anomaly once the set temp is triggered (load change), triggering the safe shutdown and doing that pulse to clear the exhaust. If the unit is plugged into a UPS, surge protector, or dedicated outlet this could be a factor. In troubleshooting, it could be the outlet, house wiring, loose connection somewhere, faulty component on the board (relay, capacitor, circuit), anything that is causing it to dip too much at that point and trigger that shutdown. If you have another outlet on a different circuit that’s close enough, let’s try plugging it in directly without a surge protector or UPS in place and see if the issue persists. Keep us posted, happy to help.
Sorry I just realized I didn’t reply here and instead made a new comment.
Thanks for the reply. I plugged the pellet stove into a different outlet that was close enough for the cord to reach. I plugged it directly into the outlet with no surge protector. This time the stove hit the top temp and went 2 degrees above with no error message and I thought great, it must be the wall outlet, so I manually hit the off button on the stove BUT then while it was shutting down after a few minutes of it winding down I heard the same noise I have been hearing and then looked at the display to see the error message again “warning power shutdown with battery backup”. This time it occurred not at top temp but during shutdown. Thanks for taking the time to help me.
I just wanted to give an update. After seeing your videos on the main control board (motherboard) and a little help from AI, me asking it many questions, I decided to give the main control board a look to see if all the connections were intact. I inspected it and noticed what appeared to be a loose connection in the fan ground and also a pin on the board seemed slightly ajar. I adjusted them and turned the stove back on. I am happy to say that I am no longer getting the error message and no longer hear the surge I was hearing before. Fingers crossed this was the issue. I will let you know if the problem comes back. Thanks again. This is a great website and resource. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the reply. I plugged the pellet stove into a different outlet that was close enough for the cord to reach. I plugged it directly into the outlet with no surge protector. This time the stove hit the top temp and went 2 degrees above with no error message and I thought great, it must be the wall outlet, so I manually hit the off button on the stove BUT then while it was shutting down after a few minutes of it winding down I heard the same noise I have been hearing and then looked at the display to see the error message again “warning power shutdown with battery backup”. This time it occurred not at top temp but during shutdown. Thanks for taking the time to help me.